With spring comes warmer weather and the start of the growing season.
If fact, if you have ever heard someone say "you can hear the grass grow" - well it would be now! It is also
time to take advantage of improved weather by tackling the spring maintenance of your lawn. Here are some suggestions:
1. Raking should be the first order of business.
Hopefully you did a thorough and deep raking of the lawn this past fall. That effort now pays off now because
you will have already removed thatch as well as the leaves. If you have waited until now, a spring raking is a must.
It will not only remove any leaves that have accumulated over the winter, but also it will enable you to rake any matted patches.
New grass may have difficulty penetrating these matted patches.
2. Next, check to see if there are any moss plants.
This is a signal that the soil is acidic. Since grass likes a neutral soil pH, you can solve this problem by liming
your soil. But don't expect a quick fix. The effects of liming are slow to take place. If your lawn has been
doing fine and shows no signs of suffering from acidity, don't apply lime. Liming is only a corrective measure, not a
preventive measure. If you are uncertain about the pH of the soil, send a soil sample to your local county extension
to determine the extent of your soil's acidity. They will also be able to advise you on how much lime per square foot
you'll need.
3. If your lawn is subjected to high levels of traffic year after year, it may eventually start
to show signs of decline. In such cases, your lawn is probably suffering from compaction. Although the best time to
address this problem is in the fall, you may want to do it now. If so, you can solve this problem by renting a lawn
aerator from your local rental center.
4. Is your lawn riddled with bare patches due to pet "deposits",
heavy traffic or neglect? If so, you may need to apply grass seed to fill in those bare patches by "over-seeding".
However, before your over-seed, realize that spring isn't the best time for over-seeding lawns. Fall is the preferred
time, when the new grass won't have to compete with crabgrass which is killed off by autumn frosts. So postpone over-seeding
until fall, unless your situation is dire. If you are going to over-seed, apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer.
Five weeks after the grass germinates, apply a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer. Since you will be sowing seed over
existing grass and not over an open stretch of soil, take into consideration that the seed will be competing with that existing
grass. If nothing else, the latter will rob the seed of some sunlight. To give the seed a better chance, mow the existing
grass, cutting it shorter than you normally would. Normally, you should cut grass to a height of 3"-3.5". In this
case, reduce that height to 1.5"-2". Also, bag or rake up the clippings in preparation for over-seeding lawns, even
if normally you don't. You want to give seeds the best chance of making good contact with the soil, and clippings would
just get in the way.
5. Lawns can be fertilized organically by using compost and mulching mowers. For those
who prefer chemical fertilizers, read the instructions so you learn how much to apply, how often they should be applied, and
under what conditions they should be applied. Remember, too much fertilizer in spring can lead to disease and weed problems.
6. If you know that you have a problem with the annual weeds and crabgrass, then fertilization in spring should go
hand-in-hand with the application of pre-emergent herbicides. As their name suggests, pre-emergent herbicides address weed
control not "after the fact," but before their seedlings can even emerge.
7. Unless you find the presence
of their cheerful yellow flowers in your lawn desirable, keep an eye out for the emergence of the dandelion during the spring
season. At the very least, you'll want to snap off their flower stems before they produce seed. If you're
more ambitious, you can dig them out by the roots. Spraying dandelion weeds with post-emergent herbicides is more effective
in fall than in spring. If you do choose to spray, select an herbicide for broadleaf weeds. If you prefer weed control
without chemicals and have consistently practiced organic landscaping, you can harvest these "weeds" as dandelion
greens and eat them.
8. Your lawn needs approximately 1" - 1.5" of water per week for optimal growth.
One way to effectively measure the amount of water your lawn is receiving is to measure the amount of water using an empty
tuna can, as it is just over 1" tall. Your lawn benefits most when it has received 1" to 1.5" of water
all at one time, as opposed to small waterings a few times a week. Many homeowners overwater their lawn and the result
is a soft, plushy lawn that grows slower and dies faster, as opposed to a lawn that gets a healthy amount of water.
Over- watered lawns are more prone to weeds, crab grass and insect infestation. Maximum benefit occurs when you water
early in the morning or in the evening so as to reduce the amount that evaporates from the sun.
Peter Ottowitz, Allstate Home Inspection & Environmental Testing
978-897-7130
www.pottowitzhomeinspector.com
Certified Master Home Inspector
Certified Environmental Home
Inspector
Certified Residential Mold Inspector
Licensed Construction Supervisor
